Killer Fit Is The Name Of That Tune

Good morning!

I realize that I say many things over and over again, but one of the things I cannot stress enough is the importance of “fit.” “Killer fit” is everything. When something fits you “plumb” like it was made for you, it really doesn’t matter if the garment was expensive or not. However, when the fit is not right, it will never look like the high ticket price you may have paid for it.

Men get it. Or, I should say “Most men do.” Most men are used to having a Tailor visit the dressing room when they are ready to purchase their selections. But women…well most women have this idea that clothing should fit perfectly right off the rack. Unfortunately hardly anything fits perfectly right off the rack for men or women.

It’s a big part of the reason why men rarely walk out of a store empty-handed, and why so many women do.

Today, I’m going to share with you one fit tip because for men and women, it is the one garment that I see over and over again that is ill fitting on all Body-Types. At another time I will share more fit tips, but for today, we’re going to focus on “pant fit.” Specifically women’s and men’s dress slacks, suit trousers, and casual pants, not including jeans, as they are in a class by themselves. I will talk about “killer” fit jeans at another time.

Women: Curvy Body-Type: Hourglass, Triangle, Inverted Triangle

If you are a curvy girl (you have a small waist compared to your hips), look for pants that are labeled “Curvy fit,” and you are likely to have more success from the get go. For a “killer”pant fit follow these steps:

Try on the pant. Once you have the pant on, zipper up and the waist is buttoned, notice how it feels and looks.

1. First check the hips and thighs. There should be no or minimal (If pants are the bane of your existence!) horizontal lines seen across the hip or thigh area. If you see horizontal or creasing lines, the pants are too tight. If there are no horizontal or diagonal pulling lines, and you can sit comfortably go to step #2
2. Turn around and look at the buttocks. There should be no horizontal or creasing lines across the buttocks or where the buttocks meets the thighs. The pants should fit nicely across the buttocks and Fall straight over the thighs with ease so that you can sit comfortably. If this area looks good go to step #3.
3. Waist:
   • Waist is too big (this is common with a “Curvy” Body-Type): Check to see if there is any gapping at the back waist or if the waistband just feels too big. If either of these is the case, but the pant fits nicely in all of the other areas, this is a good fitting pant, and all that needs to be fitted is the waist. Have the salesperson call in a Tailor and have the pant waist taken in. This can easily be done on most pants except for jeans.
   • Waist seems to fit (This is rare if you are a “Curvy” Body-Type): If the waistband is comfortable with no gapping at the back, you might want to go back to steps 1-3 to make sure that those areas are not pulling and/or tight. If after a second check, you discover that yes, the pants are too tight, size up and begin at step #1. If after a second check, all looks good, go to step #4.
4. If the pants are too long, have the Tailor shorten them to about 1″ from the floor, wearing the shoes you expect wear the most with these pants.

Women: Boyish Body-Type: Rectangle, Inverted Triangle

If you do not have a defined waist (you have a boyish figure where there is little difference between your waist and hip measurements), follow these steps for a “killer” pant fit.

Try on the pant. Once you have the pant on, zipper up and the waist is buttoned, notice how it feels and looks.

1. If you cannot button the waist, do not try and squeeze yourself in, even if the pant seems to fit in all other areas (hips, buttocks, and thighs). Size up to the next size, and begin the fit process again. If the waist fits comfortably while standing and sitting, go to step #2.
2. Check the fit at the hips, buttocks, and thighs. For this Body-Type, it is typical that when the waist fits, all other areas will be too big. Notice if there is too much ease around the hip and buttocks area or fabric hanging loosely creating a “baggy butt” and/or horizontal lines and folds of fabric where the buttocks meets the thighs. This look is all too common. A good pant fit means that all areas fit well. Have the salesperson call in a Tailor and have the extra ease from the hips, buttocks, and thighs removed.
3. If the pants are too long, have the Tailor shorten them to about 1″ from the floor, wearing the shoes you expect wear the most with these pants.

The details:

A moderate rise that sits just under the navel. tends to be the most comfortable rise and the most universally flattering. If you can not find this, opt for the highest rise that you can find, which might be a Medium rise.

Front slash pockets are generally fine with all figure types, unless the pants are too tight in the hip and thigh area, and then they will buckle and gap. In some cases, you may even experience a slight buckling and gapping even when the rest of the pant fits good. If you love the pant there is any easy solution. Have the Tailor stitch down the pockets. You won’t be able to use the pockets, but you will still have the design detail on a great fitting pant, which is a lot easier than going back out on the department floor to find another pant that fits just as nicely without pockets, and you love just as much.

Pockets that are on the side seams of the pants may add extra width and volume at the hip area, which is usually undesirable if you have a “Curvy” Body-Type ( I suggest you avoid this pant altogether), but work great for an Inverted Triangle Body-Type.

Cuffs tend to cut off the leg, so it is recommended that if you are very short or petite, that you do not buy pants with a cuff. A tall woman or any woman with long legs may enjoy the look of cuffs.

Men: Slim waisted Inverted Triangle and Rectangle Body-Types – Follow these steps for a “killer” pant fit.

Try on the Trouser. For all Body-Types, and as long as the rise is comfortable for Fuller waisted Triangle and Oval Body-Types, dress slacks and suit trousers should be worn high on the natural waist, not below a protruding stomach. Once you have the pant on, zipper up and the waist is buttoned, notice how it feels and looks.

1. If you cannot button the waist, do not try and squeeze yourself in, even if the pant seems to fit in all other areas (hips, buttocks, and thighs). On some men’s dress slacks, extra ease has been added to let out the waist. If this is the case, go to step #2 & 3 and look at the fit of the rest of the pant before deciding to have the waist let out. If there is no extra ease to let out, size up to the next size, and begin the fit process again. If the waist fits comfortably while standing and sitting, go to step #2 & 3.
2. Flat front Trousers: All Body-Types
   • Check the fit at the hips, buttocks, and thighs. For these Body-Types, the hips and buttocks should fit smoothly with no pulling (too tight). The thighs should have enough ease to be able to sit comfortably without having too much extra fabric (too loose), at the center back seam or horizontal lines or folds of fabric where the buttocks meet the thighs, creating a “baggy butt.” Like the women, this look is all too common. A good pant fit means that all areas fit well. Have the salesperson call in a Tailor and have the extra ease from the hips, buttocks, and thighs removed.
3. Pleated front Trousers: Oval Body-Types should not wear pleated pants. Triangle Body-Types should only wear pleated pants that have a single pleat.
   • Check the fit at the hips, buttocks, and thighs. For these Body-Types, the hips and buttocks should fit smoothly with no pulling (too tight). You will notice pulling at the hips because the front pleats will not lay flat causing diagonal pulling from the waistband to the side hip area. Although pleated pants will generally be a looser fit, with ease to be able to sit comfortably. having too much extra fabric (too loose), at the center back seam or horizontal lines or folds of fabric where the buttocks meet the thighs, will create a “baggy butt.” Like the women, this look is all too common. A good pant fit means that all areas fit well. Have the salesperson call in a Tailor and have the extra ease from the hips, buttocks, and thighs removed.
4. If the pants are too long, have the Tailor shorten them. With dress slacks and suit trousers, the pant should break on the shoe.* With all other casual pants

The details:

For dress slacks and suit trousers, the pants should sit at the top of your hip bones, directly below your navel. For chinos and corduroys, the fit should be a bit slimmer than dress slacks and suit trousers, and are usually worn an inch or two lower on the waist.

Cuffs on trousers are acceptable on all Body-Types, however, cuffs should only be seen on pleated trousers. Cuffs should always be 1 3/4″. Please no cuffs on flat-front trousers.

With dress slacks (including dress chinos) and suit trousers that have no cuff, the pant should have a slight break or medium break on the shoe. With dress slacks and suit trousers that have cuffs, the pant should have a definite (full) break on the shoe.

For slimmer-fitting more casual chinos, a full break or multiple breaks may be appropriate.

 In-House Tailor vs A Private Tailor:

Most department stores have their own in-house Tailor. For simple tailoring such as hemming pants or jacket sleeves, or a waist is being taken in, I feel the in-house Tailor is a good choice. However, if you are having some major reconstruction done, my advice would be to befriend an outside Private Tailor who knows your Body-Type, and Personality so that he/she can Tailor to your specific needs. Once you find a good Tailor, you will never see nor buy clothing the same way again.  

There you have it! Print out these steps and take them along with you when you go shopping. These steps will help ensure that you end up with a “killer” pant fit. And if you need some recommendations for a Tailor, please leave a comment below and I will share with you my recommendations for your area.

Now, it’s your turn. I’d love to hear from you. How are your pants fitting? Do you have a favorite pair that has a “killer” fit? Your insights and inspiration are appreciated so please share your stories in the comments below.

Blog me.

Love,

~Michelle